Stihl MS290 chain always need sharpening

[flinstone_]

anyone else feel like they’re sharpening the chain constantly? I’ve got a Stihl MS 290 farm boss running the stock 18" safety chain (26RS)
I’m only getting through about three 20ft logs before it starts spitting out sawdust instead of chips
is that normal for these low kickback chains? would switching to a different chain style or a longer bar help, or am I just doing something wrong?
I only use it twice a year for firewood, so I'm no pro

 

[Pascal]

I remember my first season cutting firewood with a Farm Boss, I dealt with the same frustrations. Those safety chains dull pretty quickly, especially when you run into dirt or bark grit. Switching to a full chisel chain really changed the game for me

 

[benchguy]

Back when I was only cutting a few weekends each year, my low kickback chain didn’t stay sharp for long maybe five minutes.
I didn’t realize I was hitting frozen bark and dirty logs.
Once I started cleaning the logs and regularly touching up the chain, the chips started flying again.

 

[Virago]

Had an MS 290 and initially thought something was off. Those safety chains are all about being forgiving, but they don’t bite as well. A regular RS chain along with some careful technique made a big difference, I didn't even need a longer bar.

 

[rhougey]

I have no experience with safety chains, not even sure what they are. My first saw came with a 33RSLF chain which is labeled as a yellow professional chain, skip sequence. I now use 33RSF or the Oregon equivalent. The skip chains are great on the big Douglas Firs here in the west. If I can stay out of dirty logs, I can run through a couple tanks of gas before touching up the chain. If safety chains dull faster, I would switch to a pro chain. In many years of falling, limbing and bucking, often in steep or difficult terrain, I’ve never had a kickback incident. In my mind the warning on pro chains is overkill. That being said, a chainsaw can be a dangerous tool.

 

[STIHLTECH]

Safety chain requires a little more attention to keep it biting.
The rakers. You MUST file down the safety links to match the rakers or you have not lowered the rakers at all. I can not recommend it, but some grind them completely down.

BUT, I do not feel this is actually your issue. Logs are. Someone skidded them out through the dirt. Most logs are skidded this way. The bark and/or wood is embedded with dirt. Dirt dulls chains.

Getting 3 20 foot dirty logs on 1 sharpening is not too bad.

There are ways to cut logs and minimize the dirt. Boring, making sure you are always cutting clean wood, etc.
Logs work best with larger saws. But technique is what makes the difference.

When the logging gets muddy, the loggers in my area start looking for round tooth chain as it lasts longer in those conditions. Not safety chain. It is called Micro by Stihl.

 

[Alan]

I have no experience with safety chains, not even sure what they are. My first saw came with a 33RSLF chain which is labeled as a yellow professional chain, skip sequence. I now use 33RSF or the Oregon equivalent. The skip chains are great on the big Douglas Firs here in the west. If I can stay out of dirty logs, I can run through a couple tanks of gas before touching up the chain. If safety chains dull faster, I would switch to a pro chain. In many years of falling, limbing and bucking, often in steep or difficult terrain, I’ve never had a kickback incident. In my mind the warning on pro chains is overkill. That being said, a chainsaw can be a dangerous tool.

It's a good reminder that no matter what chain you choose, respect for the saw always matters.

 

[Alan]

Safety chain requires a little more attention to keep it biting.
The rakers. You MUST file down the safety links to match the rakers or you have not lowered the rakers at all. I can not recommend it, but some grind them completely down.

BUT, I do not feel this is actually your issue. Logs are. Someone skidded them out through the dirt. Most logs are skidded this way. The bark and/or wood is embedded with dirt. Dirt dulls chains.

Getting 3 20 foot dirty logs on 1 sharpening is not too bad.

There are ways to cut logs and minimize the dirt. Boring, making sure you are always cutting clean wood, etc.
Logs work best with larger saws. But technique is what makes the difference.

When the logging gets muddy, the loggers in my area start looking for round tooth chain as it lasts longer in those conditions. Not safety chain. It is called Micro by Stihl.

Thanks for this. You've shared some really solid and practical insights, especially about dirt, technique, and chain choice. I really appreciate it.

 

[STIHLTECH]

44 years and Amish loggers. Need I say more.

 

[Alan]

That’s a lifetime of expertise!

 

[Paul]

I’ll add another 40 years.
If possible, wash logs with a high pressure hose, brush off dirt that you can see where you’re making your cuts. Take a hatchet and chip away a circle where you’re cut is. All of this is time consuming for sure.
Semi chisel chain helps, is a bit more forgiving. A couple of my guys swore by carbide tip chain in dirty wood. They will not tolerate steel or rocks but are good
for sand and dirt.
Logs that have been skidded on snow or ice can get road sand and salt imbedded in them when they are trucked.
Trees that have grown beside dusty gravel roads can also have road dust grown into them.

 

[Old Kiwi]

.404 chipper or semi chisel chain helps a lot if you can run it

 

[Alan]

I’ll add another 40 years.
If possible, wash logs with a high pressure hose, brush off dirt that you can see where you’re making your cuts. Take a hatchet and chip away a circle where you’re cut is. All of this is time consuming for sure.
Semi chisel chain helps, is a bit more forgiving. A couple of my guys swore by carbide tip chain in dirty wood. They will not tolerate steel or rocks but are good
for sand and dirt.
Logs that have been skidded on snow or ice can get road sand and salt imbedded in them when they are trucked.
Trees that have grown beside dusty gravel roads can also have road dust grown into them.

A true masterclass in real-world experience. Such impressive insight.

.404 chipper or semi chisel chain helps a lot if you can run it

Great point, chain style really impacts how frequently you need to file.

 

[Paul]

Agreed but a bit much for a 290.
Looks like .325 carbide Stihl chain only comes in 063 guage
Would require a bar change I expect.

 

[Old Kiwi]

Safety chain requires a little more attention to keep it biting.
The rakers. You MUST file down the safety links to match the rakers or you have not lowered the rakers at all. I can not recommend it, but some grind them completely down.

BUT, I do not feel this is actually your issue. Logs are. Someone skidded them out through the dirt. Most logs are skidded this way. The bark and/or wood is embedded with dirt. Dirt dulls chains.

Getting 3 20 foot dirty logs on 1 sharpening is not too bad.

There are ways to cut logs and minimize the dirt. Boring, making sure you are always cutting clean wood, etc.
Logs work best with larger saws. But technique is what makes the difference.

When the logging gets muddy, the loggers in my area start looking for round tooth chain as it lasts longer in those conditions. Not safety chain. It is called Micro by Stihl.

bit off topic sprockets bar for low pro and and speedcut nano

low pro use ordinary 3/8 ths sprockets ?
.325 " speedcut nano use normal .325 " sprockets ?
I know the nano is only narrow gauge .043 "

 

[Leon Couper]

I agree with Paul on the cleaning process as being brought up in a sawmill and native New Zealand
logs they were washed on the skids but if I was cutting logs to length I would still check where I
was cutting and also use an axe and chip away the bark as stones could still be stuck under it.
Even now if I am cutting logs that have been laying on the ground I never cut right through.
I go so far and use a cant hook to roll them over so I can clean them. I find a good stiff half brush
a good tool to carry to serve this purpose.

 

[Virago]

Fantastic approach.
Making those clean cuts not only protects your chains but also keeps the headaches at bay.
And honestly, rolling the log and brushing it off is time well spent

 

[STIHLTECH]

Not a fan of carbide chain. For the cast of chain and sharpening tools, you can buy a lot of regular chain. Looks like you want to cut as if you are cutting clean wood. Follow the above instructions for cleaning logs.
Again, how much you get cut before sharpening is pretty darn good.

 

[Tim Hutchison]

An Old Logger taught me on dirty logs cut the front half of the cut/log on the down stroke and the back half of the cut/ log on the up stroke. Thus not pulling the dirt and stones all the way through the cut. I find that this technique works well for me. MAKE SURE ALL OF FOR SAFETY FEATURES ARE OPERATIONAL ON THE SAW before trying this technique.

 

[rhougey]

An Old Logger taught me on dirty logs cut the front half of the cut/log on the down stroke and the back half of the cut/ log on the up stroke. Thus not pulling the dirt and stones all the way through the cut. I find that this technique works well for me. MAKE SURE ALL OF FOR SAFETY FEATURES ARE OPERATIONAL ON THE SAW before trying this technique.

This is what I do, and it definitely seems to help. Dirty logs are the norm for me, because it’s usually me dragging them out to where I can work on them. Dragging one or two logs is way easier than hauling 60 or more rounds out of the forest.

 

[Alan]

Pulling a few logs is way easier than carrying a heavy load any time.