why is my chainsaw not cutting as it should be

[MidlifeMoto]

I've been trying to teach my teen son to use chainsaws on timber for six months.

the little electric saw's been great on fallen trees, but the chain's now dull as dishwater.

I tried sharpening it with a kit after watching videos, but it barely helped, and I think it makes my son loose interest in this. Rakers seem fine.

Is it bcs of not filing aggressively enough? It starts okay, but then it gotta be rocked back and forth to keep going, otherwise it just burns and smokes. why is my chainsaw not cutting?

 

[Kb9lsv]

I would say that it’s time to buy a new chain if it’s as bad as you say. I would also suggest picking up the electric sharpener from harbor freight to sharpen in the future. I have used files, which I’m not great at. I used the dremel sharpener for a long time and still do on occasion for quick sharpening, but the one from hf makes quick work of them.

 

[rhougey]

I've been trying to teach my teen son to use chainsaws on timber for six months.

the little electric saw's been great on fallen trees, but the chain's now dull as dishwater.

I tried sharpening it with a kit after watching videos, but it barely helped, and I think it makes my son loose interest in this. Rakers seem fine.

Is it bcs of not filing aggressively enough? It starts okay, but then it gotta be rocked back and forth to keep going, otherwise it just burns and smokes. why is my chainsaw not cutting?

It’s hard to say what your issue is. I only sharpen with files. But I generally do two strokes on each cutter with every tank of gas unless all my cutting has been entirely clean wood, then I might go two tanks. It’s hard to imagine you wouldn’t be able to bring a chain back to sharp even if it took 5-6 strokes. If the saw hits dirt, it will be entirely apparent that it’s not cutting anymore. Just stop and sharpen immediately.

 

[mluostar]

If you have been doing a lot of filing of the "cutter" teeth, you should also check the hight of the depth gauge. But be careful not to file them too low, because it encreases the risk of kick back.

 

[SawdustKing]

If your chain still feels dull even after sharpening it, chances are it's pretty worn out. Seriously, a new chain does wonders,it cuts way better, it's safer, and it'll keep your son engaged and excited about using it.

Are you dealing with smoke, slow cuts, or some nasty burn marks? Those are telltale signs that your cutters might be rounded or your rakers are just off.

So, how's the sharpening going? Did it make any difference, or are you still having a tough time with it?

 

[Deleted member 252]

I would say that it's time to buy a new chain if it's as bad as you say. I would also suggest picking up the electric sharpener from harbor freight to sharpen in the future. I have used files, which I'm not great at. I used the dremel sharpener for a long time and still do on occasion for quick sharpening, but the one from hf makes quick work of them.

Yep, I'd buy a new chain and keep working on your sharpening technique. It'll take time measuring the way your saw is supposed to feel in the wood with how you last sharpened. Over time it'll come together, but just know that if cutting isn't fun, something is up with your chain, and don't spend any time cutting with a crappy chain. It's hard on you and the saw. Videos and stuff are great. You can practice with dremels and stuff to speed up the process and learn hand filing if you want. It's not necessary. You'll be told here and there it's the best way. Not true. If you get great at it and love it, more power to ya. Good luck, and keep em' sharp.

 

[rhougey]

Yep, I'd buy a new chain and keep working on your sharpening technique. It'll take time measuring the way your saw is supposed to feel in the wood with how you last sharpened. Over time it'll come together, but just know that if cutting isn't fun, something is up with your chain, and don't spend any time cutting with a crappy chain. It's hard on you and the saw. Videos and stuff are great. You can practice with dremels and stuff to speed up the process and learn hand filing if you want. It's not necessary. You'll be told here and there it's the best way. Not true. If you get great at it and love it, more power to ya. Good luck, and keep em' sharp.

This is mostly all good advice. If you need to buy a new chain to experience the way your saw is supposed to cut, then by all means do. But don’t replace the sharpening ritual with just buying a new chain every time your saw slows down. It does not take that long to develop good filing technique. The “2 in 1” tool marketed by Stihl and Pferd is quite easy to use. Sharpening in the shop in the morning or in the field is a 5 minute process and will save a lot of money over the life of the chain. A chain can be sharpened over and over until the cutters are practically non-existent. I wouldn’t waste time playing with a Dremel. Whether in the shop or in the field, clamping the bar in a vice is a must for good results, and a sharp file is a must. Trying to sharpen a chain with a dull file is as worthless as trying to cut timber with a dull chain. Files can be purchased affordably in boxes of a dozen.

 

[Deleted member 252]

This is mostly all good advice. If you need to buy a new chain to experience the way your saw is supposed to cut, then by all means do. But don't replace the sharpening ritual with just buying a new chain every time your saw slows down. It does not take that long to develop good filing technique. The "2 in 1" tool marketed by Stihl and Pferd is quite easy to use. Sharpening in the shop in the morning or in the field is a 5 minute process and will save a lot of money over the life of the chain. A chain can be sharpened over and over until the cutters are practically non-existent. I wouldn't waste time playing with a Dremel. Whether in the shop or in the field, clamping the bar in a vice is a must for good results, and a sharp file is a must. Trying to sharpen a chain with a dull file is as worthless as trying to cut timber with a dull chain. Files can be purchased affordably in boxes of a dozen.

To each their own. I don't fool around with files much, nor have I ever really liked all the 3 in 1 stuff from Stihl or anyone else. If someone finds that to be effective for them, great, but not me. I use a Dremel Lite for the majority of my sharpening. I typically sharpen my chains to the wear mark and they rarely last a season. They also pull themselves through wood well, and last as long as any hand filed chain I've cut around. But as I learned, I would give up on chains long before they were shot and it was all a part of the process for me. That was a couple of decades ago, and I'm still learning. Been a full time hand- filer for a few years and back again, just to end up back on a rotary tool. For me, using a stump vice or whatever maneuver to set up for hand filing in the field or using 3 in 1 jigs and systems ended up being my biggest time waster. It's all good if it's fun for you, but as soon as I pull up to a tree, I'm trying to pull away, especially this time of year. Find what works best for you. It might take some time.

 

[MGkellyboy]

It's probably not about the rakers if you haven't filed the cutters aggressively enough or kept the right angle. Just buy him a new one... if he was into it for 6 months, I think he deserves some new equipment. I think he'd be happy to get one like as a gift

 

[Gee Willikers]

I've been trying to teach my teen son to use chainsaws on timber for six months.

the little electric saw's been great on fallen trees, but the chain's now dull as dishwater.

I tried sharpening it with a kit after watching videos, but it barely helped, and I think it makes my son loose interest in this. Rakers seem fine.

Is it bcs of not filing aggressively enough? It starts okay, but then it gotta be rocked back and forth to keep going, otherwise it just burns and smokes. why is my chainsaw not cutting?

Sounds like the core is shorting or bearings in the motor are worn significantly enough to cause misalignment and contact with seals/ bushings or other components that burn.

As to the dull chain, if it was cutting well before sharpening, then either it is beyond repair, or sharpened incorrectly.

 

[Calavera]

Pics of your chain would help.

I recommend you buy a new chain, you should have at least 2 anyway. Then compare the shape and performance of the new cutters to what you've got currently. Then use the old one to practice filing until you get it cutting like the new one.

Several videos exist on YouTube that demonstrate hand filing technique. It's not delicate as sharpening knife blades, nothing but coarse grit is required. But you must manage two angles simultaneously. Get to where you can create a burr, and keep the top edge of the tooth flat. Then focus on maintaining the same angle and gullet depth on each tooth. Then learn how to set your rakers. You can always take more metal off, but you can't put it back on. Accumulate 8-10 hours of focused practice and critical analysis, and you'll be on easy street.

The Husqvarna roller guide is a good way to train yourself to feel the correct angle and height. And the short angle depth gauge is superior to those that rest across several cutters, IMO.

 

[Leon Couper]

Electric sharpeners will certainly help and don't have to be set to aggresive.
Check your raker hights if they are to high will cause a problem. Have never dealt
much with eletric saws but would think if you set them at about 12 to 15 thou you
should be okay.

 

[blades]

I have 2 electric saws corded, one a polesaw other is a 16" makita. Both use .325 pitch chains with very small cutters ( Pico?) at any rate I have to get kind of aggresive ( .030 down from top cutting edge) on the rakers for them to cut. if your unit uses the 1/4" pitch chains almost have to use a round jewelers file to sharpen them because the cutters are so small ( the 2 standard grinding wheels are to big) and getting the rakers down is mandatory, can't give a number on that as I sharpen them by taking 3 or 4 licks off the rakers, if that isn't enough then I take a couple more off.

 

[Firingorder]

I see a few recommendations about electric sharpeners? I don't hate them, but I feel like the manual work give me a much sharper and more controled results.

 

[Deleted member 252]

I see a few recommendations about electric sharpeners? I don't hate them, but I feel like the manual work give me a much sharper and more controled results.

I feel just the opposite. Took me a lot of practice free-filing to get something to even cut, and then cut well. Never cared for jigs and never had time or money for bench grinders. I get equal/better than factory geometry and sharpness with free- hand Dremel, and much respect for those that have perfected hand filing. I feel like I've perfected my method, but it's my method. If someone is having he'll fumbling around with files, electric is always worth a try.

 

[blades]

As I am a commercial sharpener for more than 30 years. Hand filing is do able but yes it take practice and is not something you get good at over night. as to dremel style units, in a pinch about a 1/2 a step above hand work still have to file the rakers( depth gauges down). For hand filing the little jigs that hold the file at proper height work ok just have to be careful of your cross angle. But they do not make them for the 1/4 pitch pico pico chains that I have seen.. I do not know how well they work with the .325 pico chains either. sharpening chains even with a electric grinding unit is a bit of an art in itself. Seen plenty of chains ruined by the so called sharpening of various hardware stores and outdoor power equipment shops. The old low man on the totem pole gets that job mostly with about 5 minutes of instruction.

 

[Deleted member 252]

As I am a commercial sharpener for more than 30 years. Hand filing is do able but yes it take practice and is not something you get good at over night. as to dremel style units, in a pinch about a 1/2 a step above hand work still have to file the rakers( depth gauges down). For hand filing the little jigs that hold the file at proper height work ok just have to be careful of your cross angle. But they do not make them for the 1/4 pitch pico pico chains that I have seen.. I do not know how well they work with the .325 pico chains either. sharpening chains even with a electric grinding unit is a bit of an art in itself. Seen plenty of chains ruined by the so called sharpening of various hardware stores and outdoor power equipment shops. The old low man on the totem pole gets that job mostly with about 5 minutes of instruction.

A lot of times I'll just hit the top of my depth gauges with the dremel real quick, sort of rounding them off, so to speak, while they "shrink". While not being to aggressive with it, I've been able to get away with it and keep my chains cutting smooth with bars 24" and smaller. Longer bars... different story. I have to use a guide and be more precise, and less aggressive. As a commercial sharpener, I'm sure it sounds like a real s**t show, but over the years I make it work pretty good.

 

[Paul]

Been sharpening chains for over 40 years Hand filed for years. Damaged chains (dirt rocks nails) have to be filed till the damage is gone however many strokes that takes.
Hand held guides help.
Been using bench grinders for a long time. The key is proper set up , correct angles, proper stone dressing, and light pressure on the handle. Short light taps Not too deep and very little material removed at a time. I personally never used the grinder on the depth gauges. Used a proper depth guage file and guide.
Now that I’m retired and doing some sharpening on my own, I bought a reasonably priced unit from Amazon. Works great.

 

[hunting1]

Damaged chains (dirt rocks nails) have to be filed till the damage is gone however many strokes that takes

This right here. Or if you've neglected sharpening your chain for a long time, it can be just as dull as damaged. If you can't tell if a cutter is dull, look closer. Get a magnifying glass if your eyesight is poor.

Bench grinders and using short light taps....very good advice. It only takes a second for that cutter to get hot. Too much for too long and making it glow ruins the temper of the metal and they won't stay sharp long.
Also, hitting a hard object like a nail or rock sometimes can curl the edge of a cutter downward. That's a thin layer of chromium on top and is very hard. Curled down and it will destroy a file in short order. Best to let a grinder get it back in shape first before using a file again

 

[Alan]

Solid wisdom. It's impressive how much longer a chain holds up when you work slowly, stay cool, and properly fix that curled edge.