I know, I messed up & should have checked the slack first. Now the chain will not move in the bar. Not by hand & not while running. The saw is a Stihl MS250 with 18" bar. I could go spend $100 for a new Stihl Light 04 bar and chain, but surely this has happened to someone else. My guess & 1st purchase would be a new chain, since it seems easier to damage. Can anyone that's been there, done that share their fix? I am a homeowner and just use it at home occasionally.
Chain too slack & jumped the bar
- Thread starter Woody898
- Start date
buy a new oregon chain for $25. easy and cheap fix.
I filed down small burrs on about 5 links and tried some straightening on sticky sections. And now it works!!
I could not find an Oregon chain that was right. I need 68 links, .325 pitch and .050 thickness. Seems Stihl also has an .063 bar for this too, maybe one day I go that way.
I could not find an Oregon chain that was right. I need 68 links, .325 pitch and .050 thickness. Seems Stihl also has an .063 bar for this too, maybe one day I go that way.
Huskyman
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- May 14, 2025
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.063 gauge, on a.325 pitch chain seems overkill to me, I do run .063, but that is on my .404 pitch saws, 390XP, 395XP, and 3120XP, with 36”, 44”, 60” and 72” Bars
My 266XP( Ol Reliable) 562XP, 372XP, and 372XPW, I run 3/8” .050 on 24” and 28” bars
On the 445 (Wife’s saw), 543XP, 353, and 550XP I run.325, .050 on 13”, 16”, 18” and 20” bars, I have never had any problems with.325, .050 chains and bars, even the 550XP, with a 20” B&C
Of course, you’re more than welcome to try.325, .063 if it piques your curiosity, but if you already have some .325, .050 bars and chains, myself I would stick with that, it has served me well for many years.
It’s your Money, but there are probably plenty of people here who would be more than happy to help you spend your money
Doug
My 266XP( Ol Reliable) 562XP, 372XP, and 372XPW, I run 3/8” .050 on 24” and 28” bars
On the 445 (Wife’s saw), 543XP, 353, and 550XP I run.325, .050 on 13”, 16”, 18” and 20” bars, I have never had any problems with.325, .050 chains and bars, even the 550XP, with a 20” B&C
Of course, you’re more than welcome to try.325, .063 if it piques your curiosity, but if you already have some .325, .050 bars and chains, myself I would stick with that, it has served me well for many years.
It’s your Money, but there are probably plenty of people here who would be more than happy to help you spend your money
Doug
Oregon's 20LGX is available in 68DL loops. Not sure why you couldn't find that. Unless you are just saying your local hardware store didn't have it on the shelf. You could also use the 20LPX if you prefer.
Please make a habit of checking out your saw before starting/using it. This situation was unnecessary.
https://www.amazon.com/Oregon-20LGX068G-PowerCut-Pitch-Chainsaw/dp/B07Z41T848
https://www.ebay.com/p/2313104657
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Thank you Doug, I did not know the reason for 050 vs 063. (Bigger & more powerful, need the thicker link) Apparently Stihl has used both on the MS250. I thought 063 might allow using less $ Oregon chains, but the bar I found was $80 & more research would have been needed to confirm it fit my saw.
I bought the saw last October and I am still using the original chain & bar. Given that, and further anticipated use, I think I'll just stick to Stihl chains with option for the Oregon mention above.
I went to Oregon's Web, but the MS250 wasn't listed & searching by pitch, etc wasn't an option. I'd conclude that if you don't know their chain model #, then the one mentioned is impossible to find. I tried.
Given the time & effort spent, I don't think I ever forget to check the chain slack again. Bar oil is checked each use.
I bought the saw last October and I am still using the original chain & bar. Given that, and further anticipated use, I think I'll just stick to Stihl chains with option for the Oregon mention above.
I went to Oregon's Web, but the MS250 wasn't listed & searching by pitch, etc wasn't an option. I'd conclude that if you don't know their chain model #, then the one mentioned is impossible to find. I tried.
Given the time & effort spent, I don't think I ever forget to check the chain slack again. Bar oil is checked each use.
Huskyman
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The .050 has been plenty strong with my 266XP, 562XP, 372XP, and 372XPW, running 24”, and 28” bars
Another advantage besides strength in favor of the.063 gauge, is that the wider groove can carry more oil, if your oiler will put out that much oil.
On the longer bars of my .404 saws 390XP, 395XP and 3120XP, the potential for carrying more oil is a consideration
Don’t get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with.063 chain gauge, but in a .325 pitch, link strength and oil carrying capacity aren’t likely to be issues. I wouldn’t avoid a saw with .063, but if you have multiple saws, with common bar mounts, it just makes sense to keep as much commonality among them as possible, as far as pitch and gauge
My 43-50cc saws use K095 .325/.050, bars and chains. My 60-75cc saws use D009 3/8”, .050 bars and chains. My 88-119cc saws use D009 .404/.063 bars and chains
That keeps strong commonality among three groups of saws, that within each group, any bar or chain can be used amongst the group
Doug
Another advantage besides strength in favor of the.063 gauge, is that the wider groove can carry more oil, if your oiler will put out that much oil.
On the longer bars of my .404 saws 390XP, 395XP and 3120XP, the potential for carrying more oil is a consideration
Don’t get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with.063 chain gauge, but in a .325 pitch, link strength and oil carrying capacity aren’t likely to be issues. I wouldn’t avoid a saw with .063, but if you have multiple saws, with common bar mounts, it just makes sense to keep as much commonality among them as possible, as far as pitch and gauge
My 43-50cc saws use K095 .325/.050, bars and chains. My 60-75cc saws use D009 3/8”, .050 bars and chains. My 88-119cc saws use D009 .404/.063 bars and chains
That keeps strong commonality among three groups of saws, that within each group, any bar or chain can be used amongst the group
Doug
Franny...K
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Well yes the 0.063 drive links means the bar is heavier and wider. For a bar that won't benefit from being thicker to flex less. Laminated ones just the center lamina are thicker. There is a rim drive set up both Stihl and aftermarket that lessens the severity of drive links getting banged up when derailing.
Huskyman
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- May 14, 2025
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I’m Sorry, but if you are that bothered by the weight of a bar being .013” thicker, especially on an 18” bar, well maybe handling chainsaws isn’t for you.
I advised Woody that if he already has a .325/.050 bar and chain, there wouldn’t be any real advantage in changing to a .325/.063 bar and chain. If he already has a .325/.063 bar and chain, that would be overkill in my opinion, but again, there wouldn’t be any practical reason to change it, use what you have, and spend that money (or save it) on something that he would enjoy more
.063 gauge is overkill on an 18” .325 bar in my opinion, but if that’s what someone’s saw came with, it wouldn’t be cost effective to change it, but I wouldn’t say that there is anything inherently “Wrong” with.325/.063, and the weight difference should be negligible
YMMV
Doug
I advised Woody that if he already has a .325/.050 bar and chain, there wouldn’t be any real advantage in changing to a .325/.063 bar and chain. If he already has a .325/.063 bar and chain, that would be overkill in my opinion, but again, there wouldn’t be any practical reason to change it, use what you have, and spend that money (or save it) on something that he would enjoy more
.063 gauge is overkill on an 18” .325 bar in my opinion, but if that’s what someone’s saw came with, it wouldn’t be cost effective to change it, but I wouldn’t say that there is anything inherently “Wrong” with.325/.063, and the weight difference should be negligible
YMMV
Doug
