Stihl 180c

IdahoEric

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I have a Stihl 180C that stopped engaging the flywheel when I pull on the starter rope. Does anyone know if the side cover from a standard 180 will fit so I can get rid of the ez pull?
 
Definitely. The standard MS 180 side cover and recoil assembly fit the 180C just fine. You’ll need the cover, the recoil spring assembly, and the rope/handle. Make sure to replace the whole easy-start mechanism. A lot of people do this conversion since the standard recoil is usually more reliable in the long haul.
 
I have a Stihl 180C that stopped engaging the flywheel when I pull on the starter rope. Does anyone know if the side cover from a standard 180 will fit so I can get rid of the ez pull?

Yes, they are interchangeable.
That spring assist Easy2Start system is notorious for failure. The frame for the MS 180 and MS 180 C is essentially the same, so the entire standard recoil starter assembly from the MS 180 will fit and engage the flywheel just fine. Go for it! you'll have a much more reliable saw!
 
Absolutely great point! Switching to the standard recoil is definitely the safer choice.
 
So I'm not the only one with this assessment of the "easy" start recoil. One of the first things I did with my MS180; found a NOS MS170 recoil for it, so now it looks even cheaper LOL. There was even one on an MS192 I bought used. Found a generic aftermarket replacement that has worked fine ever since.

Now I've come into possession of a Troy-Bilt attachment-capable string trimmer with their version of the same bad idea. Doubtful I'll find a standard recoil to fit that.
 
Love it or hate it. I sell them as fast as I can get them.
Largest hurdle is starting procedure. Pull it straight out and let the spring do the work, no issues.
Yank on it like any other saw, yup, I will be repairing it.

If you have multiple saws without EZ start, do not buy one. You will have issues.
Older folks or others that have it as the only saw, or cannot yank on a saw to start it, love it. Very few repairs.
That is what it was designed for.
 
Why... even go with a pull rope to start small engines (or large ones)? Someday I will have time to tinker, and build a wind-up spring starter that's a geared ratchet for easy winding... enabling one to hold the tool securely and push a button to start.

Such a device would have saved a lot of issues with dead car batteries. It's unfortunate that once a battery-powered starter was introduced, car makers removed any alternatives such as the ol' hand-crank.
 
Why... even go with a pull rope to start small engines (or large ones)? Someday I will have time to tinker, and build a wind-up spring starter that's a geared ratchet for easy winding... enabling one to hold the tool securely and push a button to start.
Actually, with that Troy-Bilt I mentioned above, they're a step ahead of you. They put a 1/4-inch hex hole in the center of the shaft at the recoil end of the engine. And they sell an "over-running clutch" attachment you can put on a power drill or impact driver. Attach it, hit the trigger on the drill/impact, and it's basically an electric starter. The clutch needs to be there so that, when the engine runs up, it doesn't turn your drill/impact at that same speed and burn it out. They're just a few bucks. But only effective on engines with that fitting.
Such a device would have saved a lot of issues with dead car batteries. It's unfortunate that once a battery-powered starter was introduced, car makers removed any alternatives such as the ol' hand-crank.
Oh, there is an alternative. And it's ONE reason I've owned only manual-transmission vehicles for the past 40+ years. Push-starting. It's basically the automotive equivalent to pulling a recoil. I've push-started many of my own, and other people's, vehicles over the years.
 
Right on , STIHL TECH.
it’s all about starting technique. If dealers would take the time to show customer how to use easy start there’s no problem. Even on non Stihl equipment.
Pull rope straight out, slowly, remember that you are not trying to turn engine over with the pull. The big spring in the housing does that for you. They will even start when the rope is being retracted.
 
That’s a great tip! The key to an easy start really lies in the technique, not just sheer strength.
 
Actually, with that Troy-Bilt I mentioned above, they're a step ahead of you. They put a 1/4-inch hex hole in the center of the shaft at the recoil end of the engine. And they sell an "over-running clutch" attachment you can put on a power drill or impact driver. Attach it, hit the trigger on the drill/impact, and it's basically an electric starter. The clutch needs to be there so that, when the engine runs up, it doesn't turn your drill/impact at that same speed and burn it out. They're just a few bucks. But only effective on engines with that fitting.

Oh, there is an alternative. And it's ONE reason I've owned only manual-transmission vehicles for the past 40+ years. Push-starting. It's basically the automotive equivalent to pulling a recoil. I've push-started many of my own, and other people's, vehicles over the years.
Thanks for the Troy-Bilt tip; definitely sounds like a good upgrade to things like generators and tillers.
And yes, I am hanging onto my '91 civic for the manual transmission (among other reasons). I will never buy one of these computer/entertainment systems on wheels!
 
That Troy-Bilt setup looks really cool and I totally agree with you about the manual transmissions. Your ’91 Civic is definitely a classic worth keeping
 
Had a older customer come in with a 251C. Complaining about the easy start and no tools tensioner. Wanted them removed.
Gave him a lesson on correct use of both.
He came back in a few weeks and thanked me. Loves those features now.
Just need to know how to correctly use it.
 
Kudos to you for making the effort! Glad he came back appreciating it.
 
They don't know if you don't show them.
I take the time with customers that are trying to fix there own saws also. It is usually a unit that would not be worth labor.
I end up selling parts. It gives a lot of good reviews also.
I just like to teach the correct way to do things.
Is there any other way?
 
Good question. I hardly ever sell out front. I repair.
Like to get 5 to 10 done in a day. Depends on the repair.
Diagnosis is my thing. When others can't figure it out, I do.
Not a salesman, tech.
 
Gotcha! Seems like your emphasis is definitely on the repair side of things.
 
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